Granada: The Alhambra

Alhambra is one of those magical places that never fade. Built as a defensive bastion in the 10th century, then transformed into a palace by both the Moors and their conquerors, the Catholic monarchs of Spain, al-Qalʻat al-Ḥamrāʼ , the red fortress, has truly lived up to its name. Standing proud throughout history, unbowed by time, and defying all forgetting, it is one of my favorite places in all the world.

I first visited the Alhambra in 2006 and have been unable to forget it since. That’s why I insisted that Marlon and I make the uphill trek (okay, I might have forgotten about that part) to see it despite forbidding dark clouds…

Granada view from Generalife

and later, despite pouring rain. But even the elements couldn’t diminish the Alhambra for me.

Patio de los Leones Alhambra rain

The dark gloom of storm clouds, the clatter of raindrops dripping off tiled roofs, the slick shine of water on marble floors, even the weak light of a rainy day may not be ideal for sight-seeing. But for memory-making, these imperfections are the catalyst that make a place come alive… and somehow, your own.

So you take it all in, damp scarf, cold hands, foggy camera lens and all, and vow to remember.

And there is a lot—a lot—to remember.

Alhambra Torre de las Damas

I can’t even describe this place, how it was created and how it makes me feel. So I will let these images of the Alhambra speak for themselves.

Sala de Dos Hermanas Alhambra ceiling

Alhambra Nasrid Palaces details

Patio de los Arrayanes Alhambra

Patio de los Leones Alhambra

Six years ago, I saw an orange kitten climbing an apricot tree by the Torre de las Damas. I wonder if it grew up to be this cat?

Alhambra Torre de las Damas cat

Alhambra carvings

Alhambra Generalife

And six years ago, I asked a friend to take a picture of me in front of this carved niche. The niche is unchanged, but the girl is different.

Alhambra me

Finally, a few tips for visitors to the Alhambra:

Book tickets for the visit way in advance; we visited in the off-season, rainy November, but even with three weeks advance booking, we still could not get tickets for the day we originally wanted. Your booking will specify an entry time for the Nasrid Palaces, the centerpiece of the Alhambra; be there an hour before (or 15-20 minutes, off peak) to allow yourself enough time to collect the tickets.

Save yourself an uphill climb (pregnant ladies like me, take note!) by taking buses 30 or 34 from the Granada city center, or bus 31 which passes through the Albayzin and stops at the Plaza Nueva.

Finally, rest your feet and unwind after your visit with Moroccan pastries and hot, sweet tea at one of the many teterias (tea houses) off Calle de Elvira, leading away from the Plaza Nueva.