I’ve been to Köln several times, but never ventured too far away from the Dom and the main shopping street, Schildergasse. I made it a point to change that on my most recent visit two weeks ago, intrigued by bits and pieces I’d read about an area packed with stylish shops and cool cafes, called the Belgisch Viertel or Belgian Quarter.
This funky district starts from the main street of Aachener Strasse, which, I was happy to discover, was literally across the street from our hotel, the Barcelo Cologne City Center. The extremely helpful Travelettes Smart Guide to Köln spoke of the as a quirky little place for Sunday brunch (and for hipster-spotting), and it was easy enough to find, thanks to the swarm of sunning hipsters on the sidewalk.
Marlon and I immediately joined the sun-powered Europeans (oh, to what depths we tropical folk have fallen), delighted to be in the sunshine and relieved that no blood had to be shed to win a table.
Drinks are served from the cafe next door, while meals must be ordered at the counter of the tiny Metzgerei Schmitz itself, which is a former butcher’s shop with lovely old tiles and a cozy atmosphere. I was proud of myself for ordering entirely in what’s left of my college German.
In addition to the big brunch plates, fluffy pancakes and large, flavorful quiches, I was delighted to find an incarnation of one of my favorite desserts in the world… tarte au citron! Sunshine and lemon makes Deepa a happy girl.
A post-brunch stroll around the neighborhood led us to the Brusseler Platz, a small, tree-lined square where even more hipsters sat around basking in the sunshine (and in their own their top-knotted hipness)…
… while my nose for bargains led us to a pop-up vintage flea market tucked into an Indonesian restaurant. #score
It was Sunday, so most of the cafes and stores were closed, like this interesting little “crepresso bar” that would have otherwise drawn us in for a taste.
So we decided to simply enjoy the little details of this neighborhood, from quirky street art…
… to quirky real art (like this mockup of a Swedish favela)
… to evidence of quirky residents.
Determined shoppers will always find something that’s open… even in a European country on a Sunday afternoon. The Boutique Belgique was an especially satisfying find. While Marlon pretended to get his inner thug on, I seized a pair of fabulous Balmain brogues on über-markdown. This was literally my face when I found them; Marlon heard me gasp and immediately pointed the camera at me when I whirled around to face him with the shoes. Good man.
Down the street, we stepped into Simon und Renoldi, a super chic store for home, fashion and lifestyle. Aside from the hip styling and great brands, we also saw… the ubiquitous banig. Level up ang Pinas, ha! Dati pang-Divisoria lang itey.
Our attention now directed to the floor, Marlon and I spied this beautiful woven cotton rug by House Doctor, which reminded us of a Indian block printing made modern by the coral on gray palette…
… and is now on our living room floor. Yay for conjugal impulse buys! They feel so much more justified.
I wonder how much success/fun/damage the Belgian Quarter has to offer when all the stores are actually open. Then again, maybe I shouldn’t try too hard to find out.
