Viewing: winter

Quiet Amsterdam

Amsterdam has just emerged from a two-week deep freeze. While I’m glad the worst of the winter seems to be over, I can’t help but feel a bit sad about losing a quiet, peaceful, deserted Amsterdam. I guess you could say I’m feeling a bit possessive; getting to experience Amsterdam the way not a lot of visitors do makes it feel a little more like “my” city.

Amsterdam canal in winter

Leidseplein and Leidsestraat are almost always choked with tourists. Even the trams sound stressed when they’re trying to squeeze through this narrow pass. But the January cold kept the hordes away, and for once walking here was actually kind of nice. Especially with music from the Once soundtrack played by one determined, cold-resistant busker.

Leidseplein deserted

This is a bit like the calm before the storm, because Amsterdam is gearing up for a big year. For starters, 2013 marks the 400th anniversary of the Canal Belt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a year-long calendar of events. Plus, the Rijksmuseum, the Netherlands’ national museum with over 8,000 pieces of art, is finally set to reopen in April after 10 years (!) of renovation.

Amsterdam canal in winter2

Finally, it will be the last time Queen’s Day—also known as the biggest party in the country—will take place on these canals. That’s because on April 30, Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands will officially step down from her throne and hand over the crown to her son, Prince Willem-Alexander, who will become the Netherlands’ first king in 123 years.

Amsterdam canal houses

Queen Beatrix’s abdication means the end of Queen’s Day; from next year onwards, it becomes King’s Day on April 27. So I’m sure this Queen’s Day—the same day as the inauguration of the new King—will be one to remember. I wouldn’t want to miss it… even if I’ll be sleep-deprived and nursing a newborn by then.

So wait, why was I so morose? It’s actually a great year to visit Amsterdam! My advice is, book early, especially if you’re planning to come for Queen’s Day. If you’re looking for hotels, try here. And if you ever need any local tips (like where to find the yummiest apple pie in Amsterdam, or the best place to eat in the culinary void that is Leidseplein), I’m just an email away!

For more information about Amsterdam in 2013, check out this link.

4 Comments
Posted on February 3, 2013
Category: Life in Amsterdam · Labels: ,

First snow of the year!

I didn’t expect to welcome December with snow. But that’s exactly what happened this weekend, when Marlon and I drove over the border with friends to Germany.

Can you say winter wonderland?

Apologies for the awkward telephone lines. I shot this from a moving car and I’m not a Photoshop ninja yet. But I just love the different shades of gray and white in this hilly landscape.

Not quite as spectacular, but exciting nonetheless, was waking up this morning to a light snowfall in Amsterdam. Here’s the view of my street from my living room window.

Out back, these plump pigeons were stranded in trees as a light dusting of flakes fell. The pigeons are flying around now, since everything has already melted—not even two hours after it stopped snowing.

It’s my second year here, and my second snowfall, but seeing snow still gives me this calm, happy feeling inside. I’m starting to believe this will never get old; I hope it never does.

While Holland is all about Sinterklaas this week, this blog will be all about Christmas. After all, I’ve just been to two Christmas markets in Germany… and I’m so excited to share them with you.

Hope these images start your week on a bright (white) note! Are you feeling the Christmas spirit yet?

2 Comments
Posted on December 3, 2012
Category: Life in Amsterdam, Wanderlust · Labels: , , , ,

Living room reshuffle

Beset by the winter blues and a strange restlessness during the last few weeks of January, I felt a change was in order. While leafing through Decorate by Holly Becker for inspiration, I came across a great tip for organizing spaces: check how a room “flows” by having people over and observing how they use the space during a party.

Thinking back to a a December potluck lunch I hosted at home, I realized that even with a packed dining room, people didn’t naturally “spill over” into our living room. Our old layout below was great for holing up in front of the TV (which is how we survived many a long winter night), but because the back of the daybed effectively closed off the room, it didn’t feel open and inviting to other people.

So, with my dictatorial brain and my husband’s considerable brawn, we spent one January evening moving furniture around late into the night. The goal was to open up the room without moving any of the paintings or the mirror. As renters, we can’t drill without the landlord’s consent, and taking things off the painting rails is really, really difficult!

We tried a lot of configurations that felt cramped and weird, until we realized there was just one thing that we had to do…


… and that was to rearrange our wine crates!

By reconfiguring them into a kind of wide U/V shape, we were able to put the TV in a position that everyone in the room could see, without making it the focal point of the room. This also filled up a dead corner, hid unsightly wires, and opened up the room. We ended up with this new layout.

I’m really happy with it! It seems like we have much more space now. And we’ve begun to actually use the armchair as a reading chair.

I also took my restlessness out on a tall stack of magazines that I’d been holding on to since 2005. I tore out pages with striking images and filed them into categories such as female faces, female figures, textures, travel, interiors, recipes and so on. This was all that was left after the cull: a stack of magazines less than a foot high. #winner

The finishing touch: lighting.

Dark winter nights are when I really feel how lighting can lift one’s mood. To help our linen-shaded lamps battle the dark, I repurposed old glass jars that I’d been saving into tea light holders. My lola, compulsive hoarder of Ludy’s Peanut Butter glasses, would be proud of me!
4 Comments
Posted on February 20, 2012
Category: House & Spouse · Labels: , ,

Skating in De Rijp

After two days of skating on the Amsterdam canals, it was time for a change of scene. Thanks to a friend’s Dutch partner and his family, Marlon and I found ourselves heading north of Amsterdam on Friday afternoon for a last-minute, out-of-town skating trip.  
We caught the 301 bus behind Central Station bound for the medieval village of De Rijp. Everyone on the bus was carrying a pair of ice skates and sandwiches, making it feel like a school trip with total strangers. On the road, we passed people skating on the frozen waterways between towns, and farmlands covered in snow. 
My friend’s Dutch boyfriend Tob described De Rijp as an “adorable little town in the North”… which it is! I’d probably go bonkers living there, but it sure is cute. Still, I’m glad I had the chance to visit—it was so pretty, and I’m sure I wouldn’t have found out about it on my own.

We were the last to arrive after getting lost and feeling like our faces were going to fall off before we found our way. When we got there, our friends were already out on a pond (or small-ish lake) that had been completely frozen over.

It was Marlon’s first time out on the ice this winter. His skates are actually ice hockey skates; they were one of the last few pairs left at the sports store. He’s skated before (in Canada, not just in Megamall!) so he took to it so much faster than I did. Naturally.

Heading out into the frozen North, I began to comprehend the full extent of the Dutch love for skating.


Aside from towering over short people at standing-room concerts, it appears that these infuriatingly long Dutch legs are made for one other thing: speed skating. When the web of waterways that crisscrosses the entire nation freezes over, the Dutch put on their skates and do what they call a “tour.” That means hurtling through double-digit kilometers of frozen countryside…

… in goggles and Mandex.

Yup, they take it seriously here. It’s pretty amazing.

If I had stronger legs, I would have loved to attempt a tour. The countryside is beautiful.

But, helaas, my tropical limbs couldn’t even clock in one kilometer before they started aching in places that I had never thought existed. ”That’s right, you don’t use those muscles when you’re lying on the beach,” teased my friend Leslie.

I could have used one of these sleds. They looked more my speed.

So we just kept to our little pond with the babies. Speaking of babies… cuteness break! Aren’t they just adorable? *melt*

Even these little tots were faster on the ice then we were.

And those who weren’t, got pulled along on sleds or wagons. I love how handmade and brand-less their toys look.

Aside from babies, there were quite a few dogs out on the ice too, adding to the cuteness factor.

I think they can sense that Marlon is a dog person; they immediately go for him.

Hot drinks are essential to stay warm, and for that overall cozy-happy-fun atmosphere.

And of course, everything’s better with friends. Especially friends with matching skates (cheapskates, literally)…

friends who know how to have fun…

… and friends who can take our picture as a couple!

Thank you, Holland. This is another awesome memory for the books. Till next winter!

2 Comments
Posted on February 17, 2012
Category: Wanderlust · Labels: , ,

Schaatsen op de grachten

… or in English, skating on the canals. Yay!
Just as winter doesn’t automatically translate to snow, it also doesn’t necessarily mean ice. In Amsterdam, where winters are relatively milder, ice is a rare thing. There’s too much moisture in the air here (I know, humid pa pala sa lagay na ‘to) and the city is warmer than the countryside. Smaller canals and ponds outside the city freeze faster, but the canals in Amsterdam are a different animal altogether. 
So when the mercury (and the snow) began to fall, you could feel excitement rising in the air, prickling and spiking with every degree that dropped below zero. The city was literally abuzz with one question: “Are the canals going to freeze?” 
Freeze they did. This has led to my discovery of the one other thing, apart from summer, that creates happiness for the Dutch on a national level. And that is… the ice.  
Heading out to the canals was like seeing a Dutch painting come to life. I was particularly reminded of the Hendrick Avercamp winterscape displayed in the Rijksmuseum. 
Winter Landscape with Ice Skaters, image via Wikipedia
I’ve also discovered why ice drives the Dutch bonkers. Simply put, ice = skating. In Amsterdam, it means skating with a UNESCO World Heritage Site as your backdrop. The last time the canals were any good for ice skating was 15 years ago; some parts haven’t been skated on since the 1970s. This winter, the city closed some of the locks, or gates, to help the canals freeze over faster. 
When Megamall opened its ice skating rink in the 90s, I was there on the very first day. So how could I possibly miss out on this?
Photo courtesy of Michelle

Join me on the ice, after the cut!


I wasn’t the only first-timer on the ice that day. It was also a first for Michelle’s baby girl Maddy, who slept through it all.

Natural ice means having to buy your own skates; nobody rents them out here. Most people own their own skates, and many Dutchies prefer the ones with the extra long blades that are made for speed skating. Mine are the most inexpensive kind I could find—just regular figure skates for girls.

Another difference between real vs. rink ice: big ripples and bumps that throw you way off balance. Also, I learned that ice is thinner (or doesn’t form at all) under the bridges, where it’s warmer. 
I was wobbly and tentative, unable to go far without holding on to a friend. But I loved every minute of it.

All I had to do to clear myself of panic was take a deep breath, look up, and see Amsterdam’s historic canal houses and soft glowing sky.

I enjoyed it so much, I had to come back the next day. With a real, palpable fiesta atmosphere pervading the city (especially around the canal belt), a return was simply impossible to resist.

The Dutch bring their culture of gezelligheid (coziness) to the ice, creating an atmosphere of fun, community and warmth (yes, even in the freezing cold!). Everyone was so friendly and happy. You could leave your shoes on the sides and nobody would take them. A guy skated right up to me and my friend and offered to take our photo. People were setting up picnics and parties on the ice…

… and serving hot snacks and drinks from canalside cafes and terraces. Some of the houseboat owners got in on the action and began selling coffee out their windows. And I had a few adorable kids skate up to me and ask if I wanted a cup of tea.

My girlfriends and I skated from one terrace to another, stopping for gossip and gluhwein (hot spiced wine) along the way. My newbie skating legs welcomed the break, and my frozen limbs welcomed the warm wine.

Ironically enough, the only other non-skater in our group was also the only Dutch girl in the group! Sophia (on the left) and I clung to each other for dear life, shrieking and giggling our way down the Prinsengracht. “Of course we can’t skate,” she cried, “we’re intellectuals!” 

In contrast, our friend Karyn was a pro on the ice. She took lessons when she was younger and even once shared the ice with the infamous Tonya Harding.

How I would have loved to get an early start, like so many kids I saw on the canals. Pushing a chair around is how you start learning and developing your balance. And I guess bundling up for the ice is how you start developing a sense of winter style.
I never thought I’d hear myself saying it, but I’m almost sad to see an end to the below-zero temperatures. The days were sunny, crisp and bright, and the ice was just… magical. We won’t get that with temperatures above zero; instead it’s a return to Amsterdam’s prevalent gray and gloom. 

I’ll miss this sight for sure. So many people—especially friends who have lived in Amsterdam for over a decade—told us how extremely lucky we were to experience during on our first winter here. I don’t know if it will happen again while we’re here, but I will harbor the hope that the ice returns to the Amsterdam canals next winter.

2 Comments
Posted on February 12, 2012
Category: Life in Amsterdam · Labels: , , , ,

Who wore it better?

After knitting a very long scarf that I didn’t like very much, I finally completed a knitting project that I actually like. I found a pattern for and thought it would be a nice way to learn new techniques, like increasing and decreasing stitches. It’s not perfect, but it’s been getting a lot of use, and I’m happy with the color.

Now, my question is: who wore it better? Me or Rogue?

P.S. I’m frowning because I attempted to take this in a narrow cobblestoned alley that suddenly turned into a wind tunnel. Narrow alleys here have a way of doing that in the winter.

4 Comments
Posted on February 10, 2012
Category: Creative Projects · Labels: , , ,

First snow

Thanks to my obsessive monitoring of the weather reports (which are always accurate here), I was prepared for a cold snap this week—temperatures ranging from -15℃ to -1℃. It would be the first time this winter that temperatures dipped below zero. This meant that yes, it would be freezing, but we could also have snow and go ice skating on the canals.

On Monday morning, I woke up to this.

Nope, it wasn’t snow yet… only frost that had formed overnight. A teaser of things to come, this scratchy thin layer of ice soon melted away.

Today, it finally happened. As soon as the snow began to fall, a little before lunchtime, I went crazy monkey giddy. I was glued to the windows shrieking “Let’s go! Let’s go!” like a banshee on crack, forcing Marlon to call it an early lunch so we could get dressed and go out into the fast-falling whiteness. When we stepped out into our street, I learned the difference between frost and real snow.

 

The air outside felt completely different, not the normal heavy cold of the Dutch winter. It changed us into kids again. As you can tell, Marlon was really happy to be working from home today.

The street was completely deserted but for the two of us and a woman sprinkling salt on the road. We must have looked like lunatics to the neighbors. We couldn’t help it… it was our first real snow!

Click on through to enjoy this snowy day with us!

Right in front of our house was where Marlon and I made our first snowballs. The snow was fluffy and flaky, not at all compact. We forced it into snowballs anyway, and threw them at each other.

Then we decided to take a short walk around the neighborhood.

A Christmas gift from my sister from her stint in Norway, these boots were made for walking… in the snow. Thank you, Ate!

I thought people who’d left cars parked outside might probably be pissed to see their cars covered in snow. So I left a few smileys to cheer them up, just in case.

We walked down to the Stadionkade, the canal closest to our house. A thin layer of ice had formed, freezing boats into the canal. Everything was covered with white and looked so peaceful.

Marlon found a large branch, which he used to carve our initials into the canal. #sweet

We took portraits of each other with my beloved 50mm prime lens.

Snow as natural reflector = awesome lighting. 

This being Amsterdam, there were snow-covered bikes everywhere. They looked more magical and less utilitarian, thanks to a thick dusting of snow. 

Not all the bikes were left to gather snow. Nothing gets between the Dutch and their favorite form of transportation! The biking never stops here.

Everything I saw around me made me feel light, calm, free. It was a special time. I can’t describe how happy I felt, but I’ll always remember.

Have a wonderful weekend, everyone.

12 Comments
Posted on February 3, 2012
Category: Life in Amsterdam · Labels: , , ,

MangoJuiced: Getting gezellig

G-E-Z-E-L-L-I-G. When I first arrived last January, I had no idea what it was but heard it all the time. Now, almost one year later, I completely understand.
So, what on earth is gezellig? And why is it the one thing you absolutely must have to survive a cold Dutch winter? Find out in this week’s post on MangoJuiced!
MangoJuiced is a webzine for anything and everything that interests women—from fashion and family, to pop culture and beauty, to travel and lifestyle. Follow MangoJuiced on  and … and don’t forget to check back in for a new post from me every week!
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Posted on November 22, 2011
Category: Life in Amsterdam · Labels: ,