Confession: I often feel happiest when I’m doing little old lady things. I often find myself in the company of retirees: in watercolor class, for example, or at hotels (all the young ‘uns are out backpacking). It gets to the point when I have to remind myself I’m only 30 and I should do “cooler”, more age-appropriate things now lest I find myself yearning to become a DJ at the age of 70.
Taking a guided tour of the Hungarian State Opera House was one of these little old lady things. I couldn’t imagine leaving the hotel before 3pm on a scorching afternoon for anything else, not even Budapest’s famous baths.
Built in the 1800s, the Opera House’s old-world opulence is apparent from its very doorstep. The stone sphinxes outside made me wonder what it would be like if everyone had to answer a riddle before they could come inside. No stupid people allowed!
The Opera House offers guided tours in English, French, Italian, German and Spanish at 3pm and 4pm daily. The tour guides are very knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and you can tell they love not just the building, but opera itself. Our guide made turn-of-the-century Budapest come alive for me, with stories of secret lovers passing notes in the narrow smoking lounge, their rendezvous hidden amidst thick clouds of smoke…
… and the royal family gliding up a special staircase reserved just for them.
I won’t tell all the tales, since it’s a lovely tour and I think you should take it if you ever find yourself in Budapest! Instead, let me show you around the Opera House and its many sumptuous details.
Red is de rigeur for upholstery, whether it’s brocade (the little seat outside the Royal Box, for whoever is waiting on the King and Queen) or velvet and nail heads in the orchestra section.
Inscribed with the names of famous operas, the boxes were the places to sit, all the better to see and be seen at the social event of the era. I would have loved, LOVED to watch an opera here when it first opened. Is anyone any closer to inventing a time machine?
The stunning chandelier weighs over 2 tonnes and is hauled down for maintenance (cleaning, changing light bulbs) twice a year, a job that takes 4 hours and 15 strong men. (No, I do not have any pictures of the men.)
Behind the old-world elegance is a fully-functioning modern stage that works as well as it looks.
After the tour, I treated myself to a late lunch at the Callas Cafe and Restaurant next door. Its rattan chairs and classic cafe atmosphere are charming enough, but what really drew me in was the fantastic calligraphy on the chalkboard menu.
This elegant calligraphy continues on the inside of the cafe as well…
… which is sleek and modern with Art Deco inspired details. Me likey.
The food was as good as its setting: an icy tall grapefruit lemonade, Nice-style gnocchi with grilled vegetables, and caramel mousse. Budapest is dessert heaven, by the way, and every cafe offers a mouthwatering array of cakes that are as delicious as they are pretty.
A review on Qype compared this place to eating in a railway station (he probably hasn’t seen the railway stations in the Philippines!) but I found it the perfect place for an afternoon break. With a tall, cold drink, a good book, and one of Europe’s most historic opera houses right beside me, this little old lady couldn’t have been happier.
